A Last (also known as a “shoe last”) is a model that replicates the shape of the foot. The construction of a last is developed based on foot measurement data, but it is not an exact copy of the foot. This is because the shape and dimensions of the foot change between static and dynamic conditions. In addition, the shape of the last is influenced by the type of footwear, design, manufacturing technology, material properties, and the intended conditions and environment of use. Therefore, a last cannot completely match the shape of the foot.
A last serves as the foundation and “mold” in footwear manufacturing. From the stages of model development and pattern making to the mass production of every pair of shoes, the last plays a crucial role. It can be said that the last is the “soul of a shoe,” as its three-dimensional shape and dimensional parameters determine the shoe’s silhouette, size, fit, and its ability to provide comfort and protection for the foot.
Classification pf Lasts
By Material
Wooden Lasts
Before plastic lasts became widely used in footwear manufacturing, wooden lasts were the primary option. They are lightweight and, after sanding, have a smooth surface finish. The natural grain of the wood also gives them an aesthetically pleasing appearance.
Metal Lasts
Aluminum lasts are the most commonly used type of metal last. Compared with plastic lasts, they offer greater strength and can withstand high temperatures. They are mainly used in the production of molded, vulcanized, and injection-molded footwear.
Plastic Lasts
Today, plastic lasts are the most widely used type. They are typically made from high-density or low-density polyethylene resins. A blank is first formed through injection molding and then undergoes rough and precision machining, or the finished product may be molded directly.
Advantages include dimensional stability, a short production cycle, low cost, and reusability, making them widely used in footwear factories.
By Height
Lasts can be classified as:
- Medium-height lasts (medium shaft)
- Low-height lasts (low shaft)
Standard Last Measurement Methods
1) Last Firth (Circumference)
Last manufacturers generally mark key reference points on the last—the inside point (medial arch), the outside point, and the center point—with small protrusions.
A measuring tape is wrapped around the last through these three points, and the resulting circumference is recorded as the last girth measurement.
2) Heel Height: Heel height is measured along the centerline of the heel using a caliper.
3) Last Length: Last length is measured between the furthest projecting points of the front (toe) and rear (heel) sections of the last.
4) Toe Spring Measurement: The last is placed horizontally on a flat surface. A ruler is positioned perpendicular to the table and adjacent to the last. The distance from the tabletop to the highest point of the toe spring (at the center of the toe area) is recorded as the toe spring height.
A last is one of the most fundamental elements in footwear manufacturing. It directly determines the structural shape of the shoe and the final wearing experience. In actual production, the last is primarily used during the lasting process, where it serves as the foundation for shaping the upper and is a key component in ensuring the accuracy of the shoe’s form and fit. When considering the entire footwear manufacturing process, the last plays a connecting role between the various stages of production.
